Bee Elephant Amigurumi Crochet Pattern with Honey Pot

An elephant trunk has to clear the honey pot before the bee stripes even matter. This bee elephant amigurumi crochet pattern uses sport-weight yarn, a 2 mm hook, 12 mm safety eyes, and tight spiral construction for an 18 cm seated toy. The skill level is intermediate because the design combines trunk shaping, flat ears, wings, antennae, and one small prop for display styling.


The Design: What Makes This Bee Elephant Different

The head is built as a large yellow sphere because the trunk, ears, and antennae all need stable anchor points. A narrow trunk is worked separately so it can angle toward the honey pot without pulling the face out of line. Large ears balance the bee body visually; small ears would make the toy read as a bee with a nose, not an elephant bee crochet pattern. The striped body uses dark brown rounds placed after the shoulder area so the face stays clear and the torso reads as insect-inspired.

One common maker mistake with this crochet bee elephant is attaching the ears too low. Low ears drag the head sideways, especially after the wings are sewn on. The best placement is slightly behind the eye line, pinned before sewing.

Project Info at a Glance

Skill Level Time Finished Size Hook Best For
Intermediate 7–9 hours 18 cm 2 mm Display toy, nursery shelf, honey-themed gift set

Materials and Tools

Yarn

  • Honey yellow — sport / 4-ply — 35–45 g — YarnArt Jeans or similar cotton-acrylic
  • Dark brown — sport / 4-ply — 10–20 g — stripes, antenna stems, honey pot
  • Cream — sport / 4-ply — 10–15 g — ear centers, wings, paw dots
  • White — sport / 4-ply — 2–4 g — label and highlights
  • Blush pink — sport / 4-ply — 1–2 g — cheek patches
  • Black — embroidery thread — less than 1 g — brows and label lettering

Tools

  • Hook 2 mm
  • 12 mm safety eyes
  • Fiberfill stuffing
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Pines
  • Scissors
  • Black embroidery needle

Abbreviations

MR = magic ring
sc = single crochet
inc = 2 sc in one stitch
dec = single crochet 2 stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
BLO = back loop only

Use invisible decreases by working through the front loops of the next two stitches before finishing one single crochet; this reduces gaps on stuffed yellow and brown sections.

Pattern — Step by Step

Continuous spiral unless noted.

Head

Yarn: honey yellow

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8–R15: sc around (42)
R16: (5 sc, dec) ×6 (36)
R17: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R18: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)

Insert 12 mm safety eyes between R12 and R13, about 8 stitches apart. Begin stuffing before the opening narrows.

R19: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R20: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R21: dec ×6 (6)

Fasten off. Close the opening.

Body

Yarn: honey yellow and dark brown

Start with honey yellow.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7–R8: sc around (36)

Change to dark brown.

R9–R11: sc around (36)

Change to honey yellow.

R12–R14: sc around (36)

Change to dark brown.

R15–R17: sc around (36)

Change to honey yellow.

R18: (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
R19: (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
R20: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R21: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R22: dec ×6 (6)

Stuff firmly through the final rounds. Flatten the top slightly with your fingers before sewing to the head.

Fasten off. Leave a 30 cm tail.

Trunk

Yarn: honey yellow

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3–R5: sc around (12)
R6: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R7–R10: sc around (18)
R11: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R12–R13: sc around (24)
R14: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)

Stuff the base firmly and the tip lightly so the trunk bends down toward the honey pot.

Fasten off. Leave a 35 cm tail.

Arms / Front Legs

Yarn: honey yellow

Make 2.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R6: sc around (18)
R7: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R8–R13: sc around (12)

Add three cream paw dots to each arm after stuffing. Stuff the lower half only.

Fasten off. Leave a 25 cm tail.

Back Legs

Yarn: honey yellow

Make 2.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5–R8: sc around (24)
R9: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R10: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R11: sc around (12)

Stuff firmly. Add four cream paw dots across the front curve of each foot.

Fasten off. Leave a 30 cm tail.

Large Ears

Yarn: cream center, honey yellow border

Make 2.

With cream:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
R8: sc around (42)

Change to honey yellow.

R9: sc around (42)
R10: BLO sc around (42)

Do not stuff. Flatten the ear into a wide oval while pinning.

Fasten off. Leave a 45 cm tail.

Wings

Yarn: cream

Make 2.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5–R8: sc around (24)
R9: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R10: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)

Stuff very lightly. Flatten the base before sewing.

Fasten off. Leave a 30 cm tail.

Antennae Stems

Yarn: dark brown

Make 2.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2–R9: sc around (6)

Don't overstuff. Insert a doubled yarn tail only if the stem needs more lift.

Fasten off. Leave a 20 cm tail.

Antennae Balls

Yarn: honey yellow

Make 2.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4–R5: sc around (18)
R6: (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
R7: dec ×6 (6)

Stuff before closing. Sew one ball to each brown stem.

Fasten off. Close.

Cheek Patches

Yarn: blush pink

Make 2.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
sl st to first stitch (12)

Fasten off. Leave a 15 cm tail.

Cream Paw Dots

Yarn: cream

Make 14 total: 3 for each arm and 4 for each foot.

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
sl st to first stitch (6)

Fasten off. Leave a 10 cm tail.

Honey Pot

Yarn: dark brown and honey yellow

With dark brown:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
R5: BLO sc around (24)
R6–R10: sc around (24)
R11: (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
R12: sc around (18)

Change to honey yellow.

R13: FLO (sc, ch 3, sc in next st, sl st in next st) repeat around to make drips (18 base sts)

Stuff before lightly R12 if you want a rounded jar. Keep the top flat enough for the label to sit square.

Fasten off. Weave in tail.

Honey Pot Label

Yarn: white, black embroidery thread

With white:

Ch 9.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across (8)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across (8)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across (8)

Fasten off. Sew to pot front. Embroider HONEY in black.

Honey Dipper

Yarn: dark brown and honey yellow

Handle, with dark brown:

Ch 11.
Row 1: sl st in second ch from hook and across (10)

Fasten off.

Dipper head, with honey yellow:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)
R3–R4: sc around (12)
R5: dec ×6 (6)

Fasten off. Sew head to handle and tack handle under trunk.

Small Sunflower

Yarn: dark brown center, honey yellow petals

With dark brown:

R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc ×6 (12)

Change to honey yellow.

R3: (sl st, ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, sl st in next stitch) repeat 6 times around center.

Fasten off. Weave in ends or sew beside the honey pot.

Assembly

  1. Sew the head to the body with the body seam at the back and the brown stripe centered under the face.
  2. Pin the trunk between the eyes, with the base covering the lower center of the face.
  3. Sew the trunk in place using small stitches around R14 of the trunk base.
  4. Sew the ears behind the eye line, one on each side, with the cream centers facing forward.
  5. Attach the antennae on top of the head, spaced 6 stitches apart, then sew the yellow balls to the stem tips.
  6. Sew the wings to the back of the body, angled slightly outward and placed above the upper brown stripe.
  7. Sew the arms to the sides of the body, one round below the neck join.
  8. Sew the back legs to the lower front of the body so the toy sits without tipping.
  9. Add cheek patches below the eyes, then embroider short black brows one round above each eye.
  10. Sew or tack the honey pot beside the body, place the honey dipper under the trunk, and position the sunflower near the front foot.

The bee elephant is complete when it sits level and the trunk touches or nearly touches the honey dipper.

7 Technical Tips

  • Eye placement failure mode: eyes too low. Place 12 mm safety eyes between R12 and R13 before stuffing the head fully, because the trunk base will cover the lower face.
  • Stitch marker failure mode: stripe jogs. Move the marker at every color change on the body, then keep the jog at the back where the wings will hide it.
  • Stuffing failure mode: trunk collapses at the base. Pack the trunk base firmly for the first 2 cm and leave the tip softer so the curve points down.
  • Invisible decrease failure mode: white stuffing dots. Use front-loop invisible decreases on R18–R21 of the head and R18–R22 of the body to reduce gaps in the yellow yarn.
  • Ear placement failure mode: head leans sideways. Pin both ears before sewing and check that the lower ear edge starts no lower than the eye round.
  • Wing placement failure mode: toy tips backward. Keep wing stuffing under 30% full and sew the bases flat against the upper back.
  • Tail weaving failure mode: prop loosens. Weave honey pot and label tails through at least 3 cm of stitches before trimming, since the small accessory gets handled during display setup.

Conclusion

This bee elephant amigurumi crochet pattern works because the elephant structure stays primary: large ears, centered trunk, seated legs, and a stable head. The bee details sit on top of that structure through stripes, wings, antennae, and honey accessories. Make the head and body first, then pin every feature before sewing; the trunk, ears, and wings compete for balance. Share the finished toy on Pinterest and Instagram with the front view plus one side photo showing the wing angle. Use #BeeElephantAmigurumi. Which detail changes the character more on your version: the length of the trunk or the size of the antenna balls?

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